Here is a short video of a day trip I did with two friends Ryan Domleo and Guy Ducasse in the Natal Midlands of South Africa.
All in all it was an epic day of exploring new roads and having fun with some of the local children.
Exploring the Wild Coast
Two of my favourite things in the world are motorbikes and the Wild Coast, a 250 km stretch of virtually unspoiled coastline on the east coast of South Africa. You can imagine my excitement when I was recently afforded the opportunity to combine these two loves and head out on a bike trip with my dad down to Mtentu River Lodge for two nights.
The lodge is situated on the banks of the Mtentu estuary and marks the northern boundary of the Mkambati Nature Reserve. The reserve was once a leper colony, which funnily enough served as a great form of nature conservationism since the area was never fully inhabited by humans and consequently has been kept largely untouched.
Ironically one of the Wild Coast’s best assets is its poor roads. I know this doesn’t seem like a feature you’d describe as an ‘asset’, so let me explain. The whole charm of the Wild Coast is its remoteness, which allows you to escape the mass of holidaymakers who seem to take over the coastline during the December holidays. We were reminded of this phenomenon as we made our way along the south coast of KZN. Just outside Port Shepstone, we found ourselves stuck in a traffic jam and could only look on as thousands of people vied for their piece of sandy real estate. The poor roads of the Wild Coast act as a barricade, thus ensuring that only those people willing to endure the sand, pot holes and bumps will get to appreciate this piece of paradise.
As the road got worse, my smile got bigger for two reasons. First, it was fantastic adventure riding conditions, even though Dad may not have agreed as he struggled through the sand taking one or two tumbles along the way. And second, I knew the road’s condition would result in only a few like-minded people joining us at the lodge.
Having said this, the road to Mtentu is not all that bad by Wild Coast standards and some friends of mine even managed to get their Toyota Tazz there on their honeymoon, although it did put their marriage at risk for a little while. If you not on a bike, it’s advisable to take a vehicle with good ground clearance, a 4×4 or, at the very least, diff lock is recommended in wet conditions. Alternatively, you could always leave your vehicle at the Wild Coast Sun, near Port Edward, and opt for one of the less conventional ways of getting to the lodge by means of horseback, cycling or hiking – all an adventure of their own.
As we approached the final few kilometres to the lodge we were greeted by a magnificent sunset and were both very thankful that there was only a short distance to go because the chances were good that had we ridden the road in the dark, we may never have got there!
On arrival at the lodge we were blown away by the incredible scenery, with stunning views over the ocean, estuary and reserve. We needed a couple of minutes for the reality to set in that this was going to be our home for the next couple of days. We received another surprise when we were told that some people had cancelled their booking at the last minute and were offered the dormitory room in lieu of camping. As much as I love to camp, the thought of a soft mattress after nine hours of riding was far more appealing.
On the accommodation front, Mtentu offers six rustic but comfortable cabins that each sleep four people, as well as one dormitory style room that sleeps eight people. Ablutions are communal and it didn’t take us long to make use of one of the best features of the lodge, solar-powered showers that offer the occupant the most breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean.
The lodge has a fantastic laid-back atmosphere to it and it won’t take you long to unwind and really feel at home. We spent the evening chilling around the fire having a few drinks in the boma entertainment area.
The real curse of Mtentu is there’s just way too much to do! It is the perfect setting to relax in and read a book, but that really doesn’t seem like an option when there is so much to explore. You would need months to discover all that is on offer and sadly we only had one day. With a strong northeaster blowing, the decision was pretty much made for us. So we left the untouched beaches for another day and headed up the estuary to explore a couple of the beautiful waterfalls.
The paddle up river is an adventure in itself, with tall cliffs flanking both sides of river to give you an ominous feeling as you head further into the wild. After a few kilometres we ditched the canoe and made our way up one of the many forest-enclosed tributaries on foot in search of the Swallow Tail Falls.
The hike up to the falls requires a lot of boulder hopping, swimming and climbing, but all this hard work was soon forgotten once we gazed upon the splendour of the waterfall. A large pool right at the base was great to swim in, with water drops falling effortless from above you. I couldn’t help but acknowledge how blessed I was to have the opportunity to visit such a remarkable place.
Due to the strong northeaster we only just made it back to the lodge in time for lunch, having slogged our way back down the river against a powerful headwind. The lodge offers a great catered option for guests and for just R250 per person, per day, you can enjoy breakfast, lunch and supper without any hassle, thus allowing you more time to enjoy the incredible scenery on offer.
After a fairly active morning coupled with the lingering effects of the previous day’s ride, we spent the afternoon relaxing. When the wind finally died down a bit, we took the opportunity to explore a little of the coastline and made our way north to Pebble Beach, arriving just in time to watch a fisherman haul out a decent catch from the rocks. We ended the day off sharing a few beers at the pub, while swopping adventure stories with the other guests. Mtentu is not a five-star luxury lodge, but if you want an affordable, comfortable place where you can really relax and experience true adventure, there aren’t many places that rival Mtentu River Lodge.
Unfortunately the next morning we had to pack up and leave relatively early, though we did have enough time to get one last swim in the estuary before heading home. It had been a short visit, but long enough to convince me to come back and explore this magical place again. •More information: For more information on Mtentu River Lodge, visit http://www.mtenturiverlodge.co.za Open publication – Free publishing – See more at: http://www.doitnow.co.za/content/exploring-wild-coast#sthash.4pRVreOB.dpuf
The joys of adventure riding – Rhodes via Lesotho
I am slowly managing to convert my family to the joys of adventure riding, and my latest victim was my brother-in-law, Russell James. We’ve both recently purchased Yamaha XT 660s and were keen to test them out on a proper adventure ride. After much contemplation on where to go, we eventually settled on a three-day ride via Lesotho to the mountain village of Rhodes, in the Eastern Cape highlands. There’s arguably no better place to test an adventure bike than Lesotho, so in the end the decision was quite simple.
The plan was to meet on the Loteni Road, a brilliant section of gravel road that makes its way up from the small town of Nottingham Road to Himeville. One thing that seems to becoming some sort of a trend on all our rides is that something goes wrong before we’ve even began, and this trip was no different. About 30 km into the trip, Russ got a flat tyre and it was back to Notties to get it fixed.
Back on the road and after a quick fuel stop in Underberg, we made our way towards the Lesotho border post of Ramatsediso’s Gate, which lies about 50 km from Matatiele. Finding the road to the border was a mini adventure in itself, as there’s a maze of district roads that crisscross the landscape, all promising you a great ride, but few delivering you to the border. With a little help from the locals we eventually found the correct road, our timing seemed to perfectly coincide with the first drops of rain!
This isn’t the most popular boarder post and the road tells you why; it’s particularly rough and riding it in the wet doesn’t help. But we weren’t complaining, as the conditions were ideal to really put the new bikes through their paces. On reaching the border post, we were greeted by a magnificent rainbow that felt like slightly more of a reward then we deserved, but we enjoyed it nevertheless. I don’t have the fondest memories of this border post as the last time I was there, I’d spent nearly three hours fixing a flat tyre. Thankfully, there were no such issues this time and we were soon on our way.
Over the past year I’ve had ample opportunity to ride the roads of Lesotho, yet I can never get enough of them. The beauty is that a road in Lesotho never runs straight for more than a few hundred metres. I know this may sound like a nightmare for any one travelling in a bus who vaguely suffers from motion sickness, but for adventure riders this is pure bliss.
We twisted and turned our way south towards the border town of Qacha’s Nek, and with the sun setting our priorities were clear; first find some fuel, second find some beers and third find a place to camp for the night. We found fuel easily, but the beers were a little harder. The mistake we made was to visit the local tavern on a Saturday evening with two fully loaded adventures bikes. Naturally, this drew some attention and it wasn’t long before I had to entertain some rather jovial men who had clearly spent most of the day on the premises, while Russ went in search of some refreshments.
With a few Malutis in hand, we began the search for a campsite. Not far out of town we spotted a track leading up to a radio tower. This seemed like a good option because the area looked fairly unpopulated, which is ideal when camping out in the open. We set-up camp in a saddle between two mountains, just in time to sit down with a beer and enjoy a spectacular sunset over the Orange River. We also woke up to an impressive sunrise the next morning on the opposite side.
Leaving fairly early in the morning on day two, we set off towards the southern border post of Tele Bridge, en route to Rhodes, and couldn’t have asked for better conditions. The air was crisp and clear, and the kilometres rolled by quickly. We followed the path of the Orange River for most of the morning and as the sun began to rise overhead, the temperature followed suit. When the allure of the river become too much, we found a spot on the river bank and plunged into the dark waters under the watchful eye of some local children, who thought the whole scene was hilarious. As we were leaving Russ offered one of the boys a ride on the back of his bike and much to the delight of his friends, the boy accepted the invitation.
We got through the border and back into South Africa around lunchtime. Ironically, on this day, we’d spent more time on tar roads in Lesotho than in South Africa. Setting off along a dirt road, we made our way in the direction of Lundean’s Nek Pass, which rises 2,162 metres above sea level. The ride up the pass and down the other side is fantastic, the views incredible and I would recommend anyone who finds themselves in the area to give it a go.
We had heard a lot about the beauty of Rhodes and its surrounding areas, but nothing could have prepared me for just how wonderful it actually is! The rolling green hills and meandering rivers paint a near picture-perfect landscape and we rode on in awe.
Arriving in the town of Rhodes was slightly disappointing though. Don’t get me wrong, the town is quaint and charming, but I had expected there to be more of a vibe, especially considering it was a long weekend.
Instead it felt almost like a ghost town. We rode around the whole town, which took about five minutes, until we came across Walkerbouts, the only place open. Dave Walker, the owner, is a real character, and I almost mistook him for Father Christmas when he greeted us with his long white beard. We enjoyed an ice-cold beer in the pub before heading off to the Rhodes Common, to pitch our tent and set-up camp. Later that evening, we made our way back to the pub for some pizza and a few drinks. This gave us the opportunity to meet some of the locals and catch up on all the local politics, which was quite entertaining seeing as though there are only about 30 permanent residences in the town.
On the last day, we got up early and were eager to get on the road knowing that we had a lot of riding ahead of us. The weather was far from ideal and as we climbed out of Rhodes and up Naude’s Nek Pass, the rain got harder and mist got thicker, making it extremely difficult to ride. The first 40km took us over an hour-and-a-half and visions of arriving home at midnight began to appear. Thankfully, the weather cleared up around mid morning and we were able to increase our speed and enjoy our last day on the road. Although the roads weren’t as entertaining as the previous days, the landscape was just as beautiful.
I think it is safe to say that by the end of the trip I definitely had another convert to the joys of adventure riding. Russell thoroughly enjoyed his time on two wheels, although I should take this opportunity to thank my sister, Megan James, who entrusted him to me for the weekend while she looked after their kids. –
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Clarens by bike
ARTICLE Words, Photos & Video: Greg Gearing
I looked down in horror at my packed motorbike, which was all ready for a two-night adventure trip to the Eastern Free State, to see oil pouring out onto the driveway. Evidently this was not the ideal way to start a trip. I called my dad, who was waiting for me to join him, fearing the worst and that the trip would have to be postponed! Fortunately, it turned out to be a seal on the drive shaft that needed replacing. A quick trip to the bike shop and we were on our way to Clarens.
I count myself extremely blessed to share so many interests with my dad, whether we spend the day waterskiing, mountain biking, golfing, fishing, or whatever other outdoor activity is on the cards, he is always keen to get involved. Credit must go to the old man for his ability to keep up with us younger folk, and every once in a while he’ll surprise us with his sheer determination to not be labelled as a grandpa, even though he’s been one for a few years now. When it comes to motorbikes, we share the same passion.
Like so many of our trips, the planning was limited. We had a rough idea of where we wanted to end up and how many days we could take, but other than that we would make it up as we went along. I know there definitely is a place for planning and the good old saying, ‘If you fail to plan, you plan to fail’ is often true. But there is a great sense of freedom and excitement generated when you don’t really have a plan in mind. You open yourself up to so many more opportunities that may not have been available had you meticulously planned the trip to the very last detail. And in our case, our lack of planning was the secret to a great trip.
We left Hilton and made our way through the lush green hills of the Natal Midlands up towards Craigieburn Dam. The vegetation quickly changed to arid thorn bush as we passed through Middelrus towards Weenen, the second oldest European settlement in KwaZulu-Natal. Originally we had hoped to make it up to Ladysmith and find a spot next to the camp in the area, but we were running out of daylight so the plan changed. While stocking up in Weenen, my dad remembered an old acquaintance, John Rich, who ran a 4×4 camp in the area called Stoney Ridge. A quick Google search for his number (the beauty of technology and travel) and we had a beautiful camping spot on the Bloukrans River. We arrived just in time to enjoy a swim in the river and a beer as the sun set over the golden bushveld.
Prior to trip, I had come across a helpful website called Dual Sport Africa, which has a bunch of adventure riding routes across the country that have been verified by riders. We planned to tackle one of these routes, called the Swinburne Tunnel Adventure, on day two.
After a quick wake-up dip in the river, we packed up and headed out of the valley towards Ladysmith, the gateway to the delights of the Central and Northern reaches of the Drakensberg range. Fourteen kilometres outside of Ladysmith, we turned off the asphalt and headed along the railway service roads. These roads provide some great riding conditions, with enough twists and turns to keep you fully engaged in the ride. It wasn’t long before we were meandering our way up towards the old Swinburne Tunnel, which was constructed in 1925 and provides an alternative and scenic route to the top of Van Reenen Pass.
A word of caution though when entering a relatively long tunnel, it is advisable to take your sunglasses off (Dad learnt this lesson fairly quickly). I had just made my way through the tunnel and was waiting for my dad on the other side when I heard a shout for help. A combination of the slippery wet surface and his inability to see anything through his Ray Bans resulted in him taking a little tumble and he now required my help to get the bike back on its wheels. When we both eventually emerged from the tunnel, we were greeted by a spectacular view of Natal.
A few kilometres on and we joined the hordes of holidaymakers making their way to the coast, to enjoy summer by the sea. Thankfully, it wasn’t too long before we left them behind and hit the dirt as we continued on towards the Golden Gate National Park in the Eastern Free State. Riding through Golden Gate is breathtaking, as the road winds its way past incredible rock formations that offer the perfect opportunity.
All too soon we reached the campsite, which is nestled in the foothills of some impressive highlands. The campsite is very pleasant, with great facilities, and the perfect for the wary traveller to stop and relax. We, however, weren’t in the mood for relaxing and after setting-up camp we decided to take a leisurely 20 km or so ride to Clarens, to see what all the fuss over this small town (just 13 square kilometres) was about.
To say Clarens punches above its weight is an understatement. This quaint little village is delightful. It feels like a piece of Europe has been cut out and implanted within South Africa. The town is made up of a myriad of coffee shops, pubs, and crafts stalls all situated around the village green, which provides the ideal spot to enjoy a picnic or just to sit back and take in the surreal atmosphere. Of more interest to us was the abundant choice of different types of beers available, from famous imported German beers to local beers brewed in Clarens’ brewery. We had to be careful not to indulge too much in the pleasures of the town, as we still had to ride back to our campsite.
Back at the campsite, we took a walk to the rock pools situated close by. What a way to end a fantastic day, relaxing in the chilly but refreshing mountain waters. The evening was spent around the fire braaing some steaks and my dad sharing stories about his youth, and I was reminded how blessed I am to have such a good relationship with my father.
After a fairly average night’s sleep, more so for my dad than for me as he was still getting used to the idea of not sleeping on a mattress, we packed up camp and prepared to hit the road back home. We entered KwaZulu-Natal via Middledale Pass, which twists its way down the escarpment and eventually comes to an end in the mysterious and tiny town of Geluksburg.
It was one of those typical hot summer days and with all our riding kit on, the heat was almost unbearable. Fortuitously, we happened to cross over the Tugela River and the chance to take a dip in the cool waters below Spionkop Dam was far too tempting.
The kilometres rolled by as we cruised along a network of back roads, trying hard to out run the storm building above the Drakensberg Mountains. Thankfully, we managed to stay just ahead of the it, and as a reward for our elusive skills, we stopped for a much-needed waffle at the Waffle Hut, just outside Winterton. The final stretch of the trip came all too soon as we made our way onto the N3 and back to Hilton.
Reflecting back on the trip, I was once again reminded what a beautiful country we live in and how fortunate we are to have access to some of the best riding in the world right at our doorsteps. Now the only thing left is for you to get on your bike and enjoy the adventure.
For more information on adventure riding routes across the country that have been verified by riders, visit Dual Sport Africa on www.dualsportafrica.com
Places to stay:• Golden Gate National Park – Offers camping, hotel, and chalet accommodation www.sanparks.org/parks/golden_gate • Stoney Ridge – Offers camping http://www.stoneyridge.co.za or email John Rich on john@stoneyridge.co.za
Adventure biking paradise – Exploring the Kingdom of Lesotho by bike
ARTICLE
Words, Photos & Video: Greg Gearing
One of the most appealing things about embarking on any adventure is the time leading up to departure; I am constantly trying to envision what the trip will be like. I will gaze over a map for ages imagining what the landscape will look like and what the road, which on the map so effortlessly links two places together, will be like. I think that’s why maps intrigue me so much. It’s not that I need to know where I am at all times, but rather it gives you enough detail to allow your mind to paint a picture, but never too much detail to spoil the adventure. This is also probably the reason why I rarely end up taking a map on the trip itself.
This was the case on a recent three-day trip my friend, Ryan Domleo, and I took to Lesotho, in preparation for our trans-African trip next year. For ages, I have looked at maps of Lesotho and painted pictures in my mind of remote roads and wild landscapes. I had created an adventure biking paradise, with mountain passes, river crossings, and vast tracks of wilderness. Often, my mind creates an unrealistic depiction of reality and I end up disappointed when the actual place fails to live up to my expectation. Thankfully, I can say that there was never going to be any danger of this happening with Lesotho, as it is still one of the few truly wild places in southern Africa, mainly due to the severity of the climate and starkness of its landscape.
Having left Hilton at midday, we made a beeline for the famous Sani Pass, which stands like a sentinel over the Lesotho highlands, ensuring that anyone entering the kingdom can, at the very least, conquer the labyrinth of switchbacks that make up this historic mountain road. Having made our way up the pass and through the border without too much fuss, we ventured on towards the town of Mokhotlong via Black Mountain Pass. Meandering through the rugged terrain, we rode with huge smiles on our faces, knowing that we were experiencing something few people ever get to. After a quick refuel, we went in search of St James Lodge. However, with the sun setting and no map as reference, we settled for the Senqu riverbed as a suitable site to camp for the night. Having spotted the ‘perfect’ campsite on the other side of the river, I attempted to cross the river on my fully laden bike. It did not take long for the bike to sink into the soft sand and I was knee-deep in water. Eventually, after much pulling and pushing, we got the bike free and decided there was as good a campsite this side of the river. After we finished a gourmet meal of pasta and home-cooked mince (thanks Mom), we settled in for a fairly fresh night’s sleep.
After a quick breakfast the next morning, we packed up and set off towards the district of Thaba–Tseka. We made our way along the silky smooth tar road, which wound its way through the numerous valleys that make up the Lesotho highlands. As we were cruising along, I remember thinking to myself that I hoped this wouldn’t be an entire day of tar-road riding. My hopes were soon realised as we turned off the tar road and headed south towards Thaba–Tseka, contouring our way along a fantastic gravel road. At one stage, I was so mesmerised by the views of the countless mountains and valleys that lay before us that I only narrowly avoided becoming entangled in a flock of sheep. This was a sharp reminder that when travelling by bike in Africa, you can never let your concentration lapse for too long.
The good gravel road quickly gave way to nothing more than a rocky mountain track, and it was at this time that I began to wonder if we hadn’t perhaps taken a wrong turn. Despite having no map, the exciting thought of riding along this challenging road kept us forging ahead. At times, the track would completely disappear, only to re-emerge at little villages that seemed to appear in the middle of nowhere.
Our chief source of navigation was to ask the locals along the way, and we quickly learnt there is much skill involved in getting directions from someone who speaks another language. It’s never a good idea to ask the question, “Is such and such a place this way?” because nine times out ten they will confidently agree when they actually have no idea. Rather try point in the direction you want to go and ask, “Where does this road go?” Although you not guaranteed a correct answer, your chances are much better. This, coupled with increasing your sample size and asking a few locals in the area, should give you a fairly good idea of where you are going.
We soon established that we weren’t, in fact, on our way to Thaba-Tseka, but rather en route to Katse Dam. This did not faze us too much, as that was our ultimate destination anyway. However, when we had done little more than 70 km three-hours later, we realised that this definitely wasn’t the preferred route to Katse. At a routine stop at one of the village schools to get our bearings and stretch our legs, we were relieved to find out from the Maths and Science teacher that we were only 5 km from the dam. We soon returned to that magnificent tar road and the scenery that greeted us as we wound our way down towards the dam was nothing short of breathtaking. The contrast of the dark blue water against the arid mountain landscape was spectacular.
We found a spot on the river just below the hugely impressive Katse Dam wall to have some lunch and give our tried bodies some welcome rest. Ryan used the time to get some shut-eye, as the lack of sleep from the previous night was starting to catch up, while I decided to test the waters with some fishing. This was mainly to justify having lugged my fly rod all over the mountainside, more than any real attempt to catch a fish.
Having failed to supplement our supper rations in the form of a trout, we packed up and made our way to the Lesotho Highlands Development Authority Information Centre, which overlooks the Katse Dam and boasts striking views of the dam wall. The centre provides some interesting information about the Lesotho Highlands Water Scheme and visitors can also attend a short lecture to find out more. We met a few like-minded people, mainly 4x4ers from South Africa, who were also exploring this wonderful country. We quickly put our newly formed friendships to use by taking photographs of their detailed maps, to ensure we at least had some idea of where we were going from here.
We returned once more to the gravel roads, but this time with a little more direction and finally made it to the metropolis that is the town of Thaba–Tseka. After a quick refuel and coke, we continued to Sehlabthebe National Park. Stopping to ask a few locals how far we still had to go, we unsurprisingly received a number of different answers that ranged from between one to three hours, depending on the optimism of whom you asked. With daylight running out, our attention quickly switched to finding a suitable campsite for the night. Fortunately in Lesotho, a world-class campsite is never far away and it wasn’t long before we had set-up camp in a another beautiful riverbed and were enjoying a meal of three-bean couscous, all washed down with a fine-tasting Maluti beer.
The last day of our adventure seemed pretty straight forward. It was roughly 70 km to Ramatseliso’s Gate, the border situated 49 km from the Eastern Cape town of Matatiele, and then an easy-going tar road stretch back to Hilton. Home for lunch was the thought as we packed our kit and prepared for the day. But on an adventure like this, nothing can be taken for granted. This was quickly made apparent when I noticed my flat back tyre. With a little help from the magic that is Tyre Weld, it didn’t take long before we were back on the road and tackling the switchbacks of the imposing Matebeng Pass. The pass was made all the more difficult by the fact that my bike was starting to overheat, as a result of a slight fall I’d had the previous day. The only solution was to stop every now again to let the bike cool off sufficiently. We finally made it over the pass and bid the small village of Sehlabthebe goodbye.
About 10 km from the border, the real problems started. As we crested a small hill, the bike veered off to the left from what felt like a blast of wind. It turned out to be another puncture, this time my front wheel. This was of no real concern; we would just revert to our faithful Tyre Weld. However, my concern increased slightly when the sticky latex gloop started oozing out from various points on the wheel. Not all hope was lost though, as we had some patches that we could use to patch up the tube. But then we realised we had the wrong wheel spanner and there was no way we could get the wheel off the bike. All we could do was proceed slowly to the border and hope someone there could help us out.
Hope was fully restored when we were able to borrow a wheel spanner from the local Chinese shop. We spent the next three hours trying to fix the puncture, taking the tyre off and putting it back on the rim no less than three times, and in the process burning out our small bicycle pump. Eventually, after borrowing a compressor from an insurance salesman at the border (this guy must be commended for his tenacity and driving to the middle of nowhere on a public holiday to sell insurance to border officials), we were able to get on our way, all be it for a short 5 km when the tyre went flat, again.
Taking into account the time and fact that we had no way of fixing the tyre, we decided to continue riding with the flat tyre and try make it to Underberg, some 120 km away. We would leave the bike with my bother-in-law and continue home two up on Ryan’s bike. Providence came when we bumped into a family of 4x4ers we’d met at the border. They were eager to help us and very kindly offered to take us to friends of theirs, who lived on a farm nearby, and whose sons were avid motorbike riders. I have always known that the generosity of the honest, hard-working farmers was abundant and once again this was proved when Gaye Kirk and her family put a halt to their afternoon activities and literally bent over backwards to help repair the bike. Had it not been for these kind folk, we might still have been out there trying to nurse the bike home.
As darkness fell and a thick mist closed in on us, I couldn’t help but think what an adventure we’d had. The past three days had felt like a month, with so much packed into each day. Lesotho truly is an adventure-riding paradise and no matter how easily the roads seem to link on the map, you will never be disappointed if you decide to enter the Kingdom of Lesotho.
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Beyond the rolling hills – fulfilling a boyhood dream
ARTICLE Words & Photos: Greg Gearing
When I was a young boy, I would often lie on my bed and stare out at the rolling hills, wondering what lay beyond them. They seemed to be a barrier beyond which unknown adventures lay. I was convinced that all I needed was a means to get past them and then the freedom of adventure would begin.
The means finally arrived in the form of an old 1980s scrambler, and the opportunity in the form of a friend inviting me on a seemingly insignificant trip from Hilton to the top of Sani Pass. For me it was the fulfilment of a boyhood dream. I say insignificant trip because there isn’t any massive difficulty in completing such a journey, however for me it was the opportunity to finally go beyond those rolling hills.
We left for Sani Pass following in the tracks of Godfrey Edmonds, an ex Spitfire pilot, who managed to coax the first vehicle, an old war-surplus Jeep, up the then bridle path, to the top of the pass in 1948. The path was eventually converted into a road by David Alexander and friends in 1955, to create a trade route between Himeville and Mokhotlong. To this day, it remains the only access to the Lesotho Highlands from Natal.
Now, I must mention that our trip was not quite as simple as it would first appear, but had a number of constraints that helped add to the adventure of it all. First, we had two old, unreliable, and unlicensed scramblers, which meant public road riding would be limited. Second, we had very little in terms of maps (our only aim being to get beyond those rolling hills), so from early on it was a case of following what we thought was the general direction. Finally, to top it all off, two days before we left, the Midlands was hit by a late season cold front that turned everything magnificently white.
Undeterred, we set off, bikes crudely packed with tents, backpacks, and sleeping mats; the open road and prospect of new adventures ahead beckoning. I am a firm believer that the motorbike is the modern-day equivalent of the horse, and that the feeling of riding out into the open would have been the same feeling early explorers or cowboys experienced as they set out west, in search of new lands and foreign places.
We soon reached the top of those rolling hills, where we were presented with yet another set of rolling hills. Nevertheless, instead of discouraging us, they served only to further ignite the spirit of adventure.
We could now start to make out the shape of our ultimate goal; the mighty Drakensberg Mountains rising proudly above the horizon and completely covered in a white blanket of thick snow. Continuing along winding district roads, we were struck by a sensory overload in the form of magnificent views and the changing smells of the cool, crisp air as we passed through different landscapes. The remainder of the day’s riding was fairly uneventful, bar one goat that correctly established it was not a sheep and therefore would not follow the rest of its family across the road. Instead, the goat sought out my front tyre as refuge. After a lot of wobbling and some divine intervention, I somehow managed to stay upright as I swerved around the goat, which sheepishly ran off after its family.
After a comfortable night spent on the floor of an old Himeville farmhouse, we packed up and hit the road once more with the prospect of making our way up the twisty switchbacks that make up the famous Sani Pass. Our progress was promptly halted when we reached the border post, where the border guard was quick to point out that unlicensed bikes were no longer allowed up the pass and we would have to turn around! We, however, were not giving up that easily and after much waiting around, we finally convinced the guard to let us proceed. We set off, tackling the icy road with the excitement of a five-year-old kid on his birthday, as we slipped and slid our way up to the top!
As we sat looking back at those rolling hills, which for so much of my childhood stood as the promise of adventure and freedom, I couldn’t help but think that they had not disappointed.
Though it was only a few days of riding through the back roads and dirt tracks of the Midlands, those hills had planted a seed that has continued to grow, and although my future trips have been a lot more adventurous and hazardous, I will never forget this one.
Helpful hints
Places to stay: Goxhill Trout Lodge, Himevillewww.goxhilltroutlodge.co.za Sani Mountian Lodge, Sani Pass Topwww.sanimountain.co.za
Basics to pack: Passport, warm clothes (even if it is warm when you leave, it’s always chilly at the top), raincoat, and camera.
Important details: Border times are from 08h00 to 16h00. Only licensed vehicles and 4x4s are allowed up the pass.
See more at: http://www.doitnow.co.za/content/beyond-rolling-hills-fulfilling-boyhood-dream#sthash.NA64cYge.dpuf
Adventures of PUMZ
Ok so this article is not excatly related to our trip next year, but i thought it was worth posting on the website. If for nothing but to pay Pumz a little respect.
I hope you enjoy.
http://issuu.com/doitnow777/docs/adventures_of_pumz_article/1?e=3324356/5765125
Adventure Biking Paradise
Check our latest article that has been published in DO IT NOW magazine!
http://issuu.com/doitnow777/docs/adventure_biking_article?e=3324356/5516142
Beyond the rolling hills
Our first article has been published in DO IT NOW magazine!!
http://issuu.com/doitnow777/docs/beyond_rolling_hills_article/3?e=3324356/5341694
Check out the link below and let me know your thoughts 🙂
Ryan Domelo and I recently spent 3 days exploring the Lesotho Highlands by bike in preparation for our trip next year.
Hamba Africa 